Here are some frequently asked questions either from my Youtube comments section, or emails.
Q: Do you think this is a good kit? I have Sakai jikko ceramics whetstone 1k, 3k, 10k, and king kw65 1k/6k.
And do I need to buy leather strop and the paste to deburr after using those stones? If yes, what micron for the paste? Thank you.
Ryky: Do you NEED to buy a leather strop? Not really. But would it help clean your knife up after a sharpening/polishing session? I use the Raw Equine without loading since I am lazy, and raw equine has a higher silicate concentration than the other leathers available. If you prefer to load your strops with a 3-5k compound, consider the Latigo. If you plan on going 5-9k, then the Rolled Buffalo. If going 9-20k, then go with the Premium Equine. Finally, Shell Cordovan is for folks who want to put 40-100k grit compound and generally use them with straight razors.
Q: I've been a fan of your channel for a couple of years now, using your reviews to get my Naniwa 800 and 3000 and learning how to use them on my kitchen knives (Victorinox). I've just purchased my first knife from you, a Tojiro "Oboro" VG10 175mm Santoku. Is there anything I should do differently besides sharpening at a slightly steeper angle? My main question is, how long can I go before worrying about thinning out the blade?
Ryky: The topic of knife thinning will be debated until the end of time. I do not thin any of my knives and have only needed to on a few occasions. I have never thinned an excellent performing or new knife. However, I decided that thinning the blade was appropriate for a few restorations where I had to repair chips on the cutting edge 3-5mm deep. I addressed this topic in my "5 Biggest Lies of Knife Sharpening" post. To be clear - I am not against thinning. I am, however, against the notion of thinning every sharpening session. So, the answer your question, I believe you don't have to worry about thinning your Oboro after many years of use, that is, unless you chip the cutting edge enough to grind down significant (2mm+) material to warrant getting it thinned.
Q: Hi Ryki, I have been a follower of your channel on Youtube for a decent time now, and I have always wanted to ask you one question. Why are you not done a video about different Japanese knives and what each is for? I wanted to buy my first Japanese knife, and since I am a vegetarian, I tried to find a knife that is well suited for vegetable cutting. I searched your Youtube channel and did not find a video about the Types of Japanese knives and what each knife is for. I ended up googling. As usual, the results are mixed... Please do a video about this and suggest which knife or knife is suitable for handling vegetables. I want to keep the budget around $200.
Ryky: The topic is knife shapes and what to use them on is more subjective to the user's preferences. You can use any of the knife shapes below on vegetables. Some people want a knife that can "do it-all," while others are willing to invest in multiple blades for fish, poultry, vegetables, etc. I will summarize the following blade types, and you can decide which will suit your needs best. Please keep in mind that these are the more common types of Japanese knives. There are dozens more specialized shapes and sizes that I will cover in future posts.
Here are some basic knife shapes and makers you may want to familiarize yourself with
Nakiri: These are more dedicated vegetable knives. Their cutting profile generates much cutting power and higher efficiency for small to medium-sized vegetables. However, a nakiri's typical length of 165mm is not great for more significant ingredients, such as melons.
Gyuto: A chef knife or gyuto is the all-around knife in the kitchen. Other than tasks reserved for tiny knives, such as peeling skin from potatoes or carving skin from an apple - such tasks that a 3" paring knife excels at, chefs/gyutos can do anything.
Nigara makes knives with excellent fit and finish.
Moritaka's Santoku has a linear cutting profile suitable for push-cutting.
Mcusta Zanmai offers great fit and finish with uniquely shaped handles.
Kiritsuke: Double bevel kiritsukes are similar to gyutos but have a pointed tip. They will likely have an identical cutting profile if you hold up a double-beveled kiritsuke and gyuto from the same maker.
Yu Kurosaki offers some of the most exotic tsuchime (hammer marks).
Tanaka Hamono offers incredible performance at moderate prices.
Tojiro's DP line of knives is always a top recommendation for budget-minded buyers wanting high-performance blades.
Santoku: The word "Santoku" means "three virtues" or "three uses." I will be honest and tell you I have never liked santokus. I have used santokus and gyutos side-by-side and have never found a use case where the Santoku outperformed the gyuto. In every case where a santoku was used, the gyuto was just as adequate, if not better suited. I have at least one Santoku in my home, and it is because my wife prefers the typical 165mm length of a santoku over the 210mm or 240mm length of chef's knives. Unless you only plan to cut small to medium-sized ingredients, a chef's knife or gyuto would be a better knife to buy since they are better suited for more significant ingredients, whether cutting vegetables or significant cuts of meats. If you want a dedicated blade for greens, a nakiri or bunka would be my preferred knife.
Bunka: A bunka is a knife you may not know much about. They usually are 165mm in lengths like nakiris and santokus and have a pointed tip. A more straightforward explanation is that they are nakiris with a pointy end, similar to kiritsukes, are gyutos with a pointed tip. Because of their height, bunkas generate much cutting power, though not as much as a nakiri. The flatter and linear cutting profiles are more enjoyable than the relaxed rocking profiles.
Seki Kanetsugu offers gorgeously made SG2 core steel.
Yu Kurosaki continues to offer his incredible tsuchime design.
Miyabi offers a moderately priced line of ZDP189 knives.
Honesuki: This style of knife is designed for butchering poultry. It has a wedge shape, unlike any other knife shape. It gives precise control to the user and can move the knife around bones and joints efficiently. You typically will find this knife as single beveled, but several knife makers do offer them in a symmetrical or double beveled cutting edge. Due to their size and shape, they also make a good utility knife for the occasional cutting of fruit and vegetables.
Zanmai offers a curved honesuki suitable for filleting as well.
Misono UX10 series features a very stiff blade, an aggressive cutting profile, and a well-shaped handle.
Moritaka offers a very value with a Kurouchi finish unlike any other.
Chuka Bocho: Chuka Bochos are cleaver equivalents. If you ask someone well-versed with cleavers, they will likely tell you it is the only knife you will ever need in the kitchen. Though I do not share this sentiment, I agree they are fantastic tools. Cleavers have the length of a chef knife but the cutting profile of a nakiri, but twice the height. In so being, it generates a tremendous amount of cutting force. The cutting profile makes push cutting as efficient as possible. A well-made cleaver has to balance cutting power while remaining versatile and agile enough to handle cutting fish, country, beef, pork, and all sorts of vegetables. The only thing I did not enjoy using a clear for in my testing was skinning fruit or potatoes. Cleavers are just as versatile as gyutos and chef's knives, except for those two things.
Tojiro offers a great value with good steel material and finishing combinations.
Mizuno is known for its exceptional traditional Japanese knife designs, but they also make great cleavers.
Sugimoto is the most well-known Japanse made maker offering cleavers.
Petty: A petty is your Western paring knife counterpart, though they can get much longer than a typical paring 3.5-inch length. Although You can find petty knives in the 90mm or 3.5-inch size, it is not uncommon for knife makers to offer mostly 150mm or 6-inch lengths - making them as long as western utility knives.
Sakai Takayuki by Itsuo Doi offers incredibly craft knives with rustic finishes.
Misono offers full carbon steel knives with the Swedish series.
Nigara offers a kiritsuke-styled petty, which are aggressive and efficient cutters.
Q: Hello, I currently have a Kiritsuke and Gyuto 210, Santoku and bunka 170, all Moritaka Aogami Super. I wonder what is the best knife for portioning lamb ribs and filleting salmon. And Is a petty knife necessary for my knife kit?
Ryky: You have great taste! I am a fan of Moritaka Hamono. As for your questions, I will answer based on what I currently use at home. I do not prepare lamb ribs often, but I smoke baby back ribs at least once a month. I also smoke whole chicken and turkey on occasion. Whenever there are ribs involved, I go for a Honesuki. The main reason is I find them to be most efficient when maneuvering around bone joints. I favorite this knife shape with western handles, as I find they offer better grip when my hands are oily or wet.
I also smoke salmon once every other month, and I generally buy my salmon in large fillets.